In the past France has sometimes been unfairly characterized as having ugly, purpose-built resorts and while there are certainly one or two examples of this concrete style, there are also plentiful alpine villages and towns busting with charm. The French après ski used to compare unfavourably to the joyous oompah atmosphere of Austria but then the Folie Douce rewrote the story and I’d rather have a toffee vodka than a shot of Schnapps any day.
France still has more chalets than either Switzerland or Austria and while not wishing to belittle any of the delights of Zermatt, Verbier or St Anton, many of the best luxury ski chalets are still to be found here. And at SkiBoutique we know exactly where the best luxury chalets are to be found in France.
But how to choose which is the perfect French resort for you? Here is my light-hearted and utterly biased guide to skiing in France.
Val d’Isere – This is still the gold standard of resorts. Tucked away at the end of the Tarentaise Valley, it offers some of the best skiing anywhere in the world. A charming resort centre and even the apartments in La Daille have had a facelift to ensure that the resort exudes a charming Alpine air. Great skiing and great après with a Folie Douce, the original Dick’s Tea Bar and Cocorico at the foot of Solaise and the Face de Bellevarde. It has lively restaurants such as La Baraque and style aplenty in the Michelin starred L’Atelier d’Edmond and everything in between. It has some of the most lovely luxury ski chalets to be found anywhere including Eagle Nest, Lhotse, Marco Polo and Montana. For unashamed hedonism, they take the biscuit.
Tignes – Val’s neighbour used to be regarded as the slightly poorer cousin that had great skiing but no real clout when it came to the luxury chalet market or fancy restaurants. But if you haven’t been for a few years, you need to come visit and see the changes. There are an increasing number of lovely chalets including Ambre, Opale and the unique Chalets Quezac and Rock n’Love. You’d like a delicious lunch? Then look no further than refurbished Le Panoramic at 3,032m at the top of the Grande Motte funicular, which serves fantastic food and is decorated to the brim with a plethora of sheepskin rugs. Or visit the wonderful former dairy farm of La Ferme des 3 Capucines now highly regarded by the Michelin Guide inspectors.
Ste Foy – The resort that proves that small can be very beautiful. This may be a little village with 6 lifts and 40kms of piste but don’t be fooled, this is cult off-piste territory. St Foy is the ideal choice for families and for adventurous skiers who want to get away from the beaten track. It is also the perfect base for visiting the nearby mega-resorts of Les Arcs, Tignes and Val d’Isère. And Ste Foy may be small but it still packs a punch in the luxury chalets in France market with Yellowstone Lodge as the ideal family chalet and Le Pelerin as the dream chalet for adventurous ski tourers and off-piste junkies as it comes with its own guide and its very own mountain refuge.
Moving along the Tarentaise Valley you come to the famous 3 Valleys – one ski area but 3 very different resorts. Courchevel is definitely the choice of the rich and famous but as the manicured green runs go right into the centre of 1850, it is also the perfect for families and beginners. See and be seen in Courchevel 1850 although some say the smart choice is now 1650 where there are some seriously lovely chalets and an Angela Hartnett restaurant that is just perfect for a ski lunch.
Move over to Méribel, the original chalet resort – not as flash as Courchevel and more the place to ski than be seen but it does now have the Folie Douce (as well as the more home-grown Rond Point des Pistes) and its first Michelin starred restaurant opened last winter, L’Ekrin. It is growing up – watch this space….. But for true foodies, the resort of choice has to be St Martin de Belleville. This is a really lovely Savoyard Alpine village with a host of great restaurants headed by the 3 Michelin star, La Bouitte. Luckily we have some absolutely terrific luxury chalets to match in Chalets Chamois, Ecurie and Abode.
Megève – This resort, built by the de Rothschild family was designed to provide a French alternative to the swanky St Moritz and boy, does it ever. Seriously stylish and so terribly chic that it is ‘Paris on Snow’. Wonderful shops, mouth-watering restaurants and some great skiing. Pack all your ski outfits to impress here and stay at the beautifully opulent Chalet Ma Datcha where you can lounge in your outdoor pool watching the snow glisten on the mountains.
Chamonix – For a complete contrast to Megève, head to ‘the’ mountain town of Chamonix. Legendary skiing, impressive peaks, and stunning mountain views from every angle – this resort is on every skier’s bucket list. Don’t be put off by tall tales of experts only – this has some fantastic intermediate skiing, a vibrant nightlife, great shopping and some seriously lovely chalets where you will be pampered and cared for like no where else. And, although you have to be a dedicated fan to crave it in the winter, Chamonix has some of the best ice cream anywhere in the Alps (ask me for details).
Finally it’s just a short trip down the valley to the Portes de Soleil and the lovely resorts of Les Gets, Morzine and Châtel. Less-well known that some of France’s big hitters, there has been enormous growth in the luxury chalet market here in the last few years.
Perhaps started by Le Ferme de Moudon, the renovation of an old farmhouse that featured on ‘Grand Designs’ the trend has been continued by the likes of Ferme de la Corderie (Les Gets), Twenty26 and Jejalp (Morzine) and Chaletneuf du Tenne (Châtel). This is a great ski area with 194 lifts and 650 kms of piste in France and Switzerland – Morzine is the largest of the resorts with a buzzing town centre whereas Les Gets and Châtel are more villagey. I have to confess for a particular soft spot for Les Gets – any place with a museum dedicated to mechanical music boxes gets my vote.
Whichever resort in France you choose and whichever luxury ski chalet in France you pick there are a few certainties: the génépi will be good, the cheese fantastic and you won’t get better, more honest advice from anyone than SkiBoutique – after all we live here.